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Bikaner

Picturesque golden sand dunes, striking red sandstone forts, stunning palaces and havelis- well this is Bikaner city for you. Bikaner is a fortified city with a timeless appeal of royal aura. Apart from that, the city located on the northern part of the incredible state of Rajasthan, boasts of having the best camels in the country. Infact, the city has been fondly called the camel country for its largest Camel research and breeding farm in the world.

Bikaner was founded by Rao Bikaji, a Rathore prince in 1488 AD by transforming the barren land Jangladesh into a striking city. Later with the initiative of Maharaja Ganga Singh, Bikaner became a noteworthy princely state. In the past, Bikaner was also an important trade route that was linked with China and Central Asia.

Today, Bikaner is a major tourist attraction standing on a slightly raised ground and is circumscribed by a seven km long embattled wall with five gates. The magnificent forts and palaces, created with delicacy in reddish-pink sandstone, bear testimony to its rich historical and architectural legacy. Surging lanes, colorful bazaars with bright, cheerful folks and the annual camel festival make Bikaner an interesting experience to explore.

The Bikaner city is a treasure trove of interesting spots for tourists to explore. Some of them are:

Junagarh Fort: One of the perfect examples of Rajput art and architecture, the Junagarh Fort is the living embodiment of the valor and majesty of the erstwhile rulers of Rajasthan. It was built in the 15th century by Raja Rai Singh, one of the most able and trusted generals of Akbar. He was also the sixth ruler of Bikaner, who ruled form 1571 to 1612 AD. One of the most interesting facts about this fort is that it remained unconquered inspite of repeated attacks and offered protection to its populace for long 500 years. Today, the Junagarh fort is one of the most visited tourist attraction of Northern India.

You must visit the fort to admire both its architecture and history. The fort is well guarded by a high wall and deep moats which surround it. The 37 bastions guard the fort and you may enter it from any of the two main entrances- the Karan Pol that lies in the east, or the Chand Pol lying in the west. The former consists of the Sati Sthambs with imprints of symbolic hands of the royal ladies who committed the act of sati during the different attacks on it. The Suraj Pol dedicated to the Sun God, lies close by.

You would find some very magnificent palaces inside the fort like the Anup Mahal, the Dungar Niwas, Vijai Mahal, the Ganga Niwas and the Rang Mahal or palace of pleasure. Then there is the Karan Mahal, built to celebrate the victory over Aurangzeb. The multi-storied Anup Mahal was the governance chambers for the rulers. It displays an excellent endeavor of gold-craftsmanship; exquisite stone carvings embellished with delicate patterns and painted with gold leaf. The walls of the rooms are beautifully decorated with lacquer work of red and gold as well as inlay work in glass. The well maintained rooms now display treasures of the Royal family. One of the most prominent palaces in the fort premises is however the Chandra Mahal or the Moon Palace. It is spectacular with its carved marble panels, mirrors and paintings. Another palace you may take a look at is the Badal Mahal or Cloud Palace where the walls are painted with blue cloud motifs, perhaps inspirational in this desert state. You would love its fresco paintings, which narrate the story of Krishna and Radha during rains. The courtyards house the family temple Har Mandir, where royal weddings took place and royal births were celebrated.

One of the most wonderful palaces you would admire in the fort is the Phool Mahal or the Flower Palace, which is garlanded with delicate mirror work. Then there is the Hawa Mahal or the Summer Palace, which had a peculiar gadget that alerted the maharajah to potential enemies. Here you would also find a royal bed with a mirror jelled over it which was believed to enable the Maharajah, Dunga Singh to see the reflections of people walking across the courtyard below. You should also make it a point to visit the Diwan-i-khas, which houses an intricately carved mammoth sandalwood throne, placed along with three massive arches.

There are in all about 37 palaces, temples and pavilions on the fort that are built in red sandstone. These palaces, constructed in red sandstone and marble, have beautifully designed courtyards, balconies, kiosks, mirrors, paintings, carved marble panels and windows speckled all over the structure.

And the best part is the library of the fort that owns a rich anthology of Persian manuscripts, ancient Sanskrit books and an enviable arsenal for those of you who are interested in ancient literature.

The fort museum also known as the Prachina Museum would give you an insight into the lives of the Rajput rulers of those times. It has an extensive collection of family and fraternity memorabilia in the form of illuminated manuscripts, jewelry, jars and carpets, arms and weapons, treaties, decorations and the 'Farmans'. You would surely love to gawk at the 'Poshaks' or the ladies ensemble displayed there, which are perhaps the last remnants of the traditional designing styles and workmanship. The museum also reveals a study of changing cultural settings in its display of family portraits of the former rulers. It is to be mentioned here that the museum was originally an august Durbar Hall built by Maharajah Ganga Singh, the last of King of Junagarh. One of the interesting things you would notice about the place is that the floor as well as ceiling is made utterly of wood.

In short, Junagarh Fort - the dreamland in stone has everything that goes into making it a must visit on your trip to Bikaner, Rajasthan. You may visit the place from September to February, when the climate is cool and favorable for traveling.

Shopping there

You can buy traditional costumes and jewelry from the souvenir shops that line up at the entrance of the fort.

Prachin is a storehouse of vintage textiles and costumes. The galleria which opens its gate at 9 am and closes at 6 pm, offers a wonderful array of traditional handlooms and silver filigree ornaments. Get yourself some typical but colorful Rajasthani bangles, which would remind you of this enchanting place forever.

Lalgarh Palace: This majestic palace built by Maharaja Ganga Singh in 1902 is a marvelous piece of architecture in red sandstone. The unique fusion of Rajput, Mughal and European architecture, exhibits superb craftsmanship in the form of striking latticework and filigree work. One thing you will notice about this place is that the exterior contrasts dramatically with the oriental interiors and amenities.

However, the best thing that would attract you in this place is the most amazing collection of well-maintained paintings and hunting trophies. The sprawling lawns with blooming bougainvillea and dancing peacocks are a real treat for visitors to this place.

Jain Havelis: Bikaner abounds in beautiful havelis- the ancient luxurious mansions with sprawling courtyards where the nobles or the affluent people of Rajasthan lived. These havelis belonged to the Kotharis, Rampurias, Vaids and Dagas of Rajasthan. They are known for their opulent life style and intricate carvings and craftsmanship.

Bhandeswari Jain Temple: This is one of the oldest shrines of Bikaner built way back in the 15th century. Whether you are a Jain or not, you would love to see the place adorned with mirror work, frescos and gold leaf paintings.

Shiv Bari Temple: Located at a distance of 6kms from the heart of Bikaner, the Shiv Bari Temple also known as the Laleshwar Mahadeo temple is a marvel in red sandstone. The temple is built within a fortified wall and dates back to 9th century. It was built by Maharaja Doongar Singh in the memory of his father Maharaj Lall Singhji. The two things that arrest your attention in the temple are a huge idol of Lord Shiva made up of black marble and a beautiful wall panting of Nandi Bull facing the Shiva Lingam. Other things that you would like in the temple are its domes, pavilions and beautiful columns.

Deshnok Temple: This temple dedicated to Karni Mata, an incarnation of Goddess Durga is located 30 km south from Bikaner city along the Jodhpur Road. This temple is visited by a large number of pilgrims every year who believe that the goddess actually lived here in the 14th century and performed many miracles. The rulers of Bikaner were great followers of the goddess and even today the Rajputs of Rajasthan bring their children on jadula (their first hair cut) and place them at the deity's feet for her blessings.

As you enter the 600 year old temple, you would see a beautiful marble facade, which has solid silver doors built by Maharaja Ganga Singh. There are a number of silver doors with panels across the doorway that depicts the various legends associated with the goddess. Inside the inner sanctum, you would find a 75 cms image of Karni Mata adorned with a mukut (tiara) accompanied by the images of her sisters.

One of the most amazing things you would notice in this temple is the presence of rats in the temple premise. Devotees of the goddess believe that the rats are supposed to be future incarnations of mystics or Sadhus. The rats are fed by the visiting pilgrims, which are considered lucky. If you want to earn yourself luck in this temple then you should keep a look out for the white rats. Infact, the temple has a beautiful silver door and a wire mesh over the courtyard to protect the rats from birds. The rats are called kabas and if you injure a rat in the temple, you are expected to present a gold or silver replica to the temple or suffer misfortune.

You should visit the temple during the Karni Mata Fair, which is held twice a year at Deshnok in the months of Vaishakha (April/May) and Kartika (October/November). The temples draws so many pilgrims during the Karni Mata Fair in Chaitra, (March- April) that special buses and trains are arranged to carry the pilgrims to Deshnok from the major cities of Rajasthan like Bikaner, Nagaur, Jodhpur and Jaipur.

Ganga Singh Museum: This is one of the best museums of Rajasthan and is of great historical significance. The museum has a rich array of archaeological discoveries from prehistoric Harrapan and early Gupta period, thus transferring you to that era in history. There are also separate sections for exhibiting paintings, arts and craft, terracotta, pottery, carpets, coins and ancient Rajput weaponry. You may visit the museum anytime between 10.30 am to 4.30 pm except on Fridays and govt. holidays.

Shri Sadul Museum: This museum housed in the upper story of Sadul Niwas Building of Lallgarh Place, was established in the year 1972. It throws significant light on the lives and times of the rulers of Bikaner specially the three successive maharajas namely Maharaja Ganga Singhji, Maharaja Sadul Singhji and Maharaja Karni Singhji. You would find interesting artifacts of their use like an electric toothbrush, golf clubs, camera, passport etc. A few Georgian paintings and rare photographs are also displayed in the 22-room museum. A visit to the museum reveals the rulers’ profound interest in art.

Devi Kund: This is actually the royal crematorium of the rulers of Bikaner located 8 kms from Bikaner. The royal crematorium has several exquisite cenotaphs (Chhatris) dedicated to the memory of rulers of the Bikaji dynasty.

The Devi Kund Chattris would surely steal your hearts with their beautiful Rajputana architectural style. Amongst the Chhatris, the most remarkable is that of Maharaj Surat Singh which has some really delicate Rajput paintings on the ceilings.

Interestingly, all age groups had different types of Chatris on their cemetery. The crematoriums for royal adult men are white structures canopied with an upright stela engraved with their name and portrait. Those for royal wives are canopied structure covering a horizontal plaque with a pair of footprints often marked with the kind of henna patterns drawn on the feet for a wedding or festival. And the ones for children consist of small white cubes without canopies.

Rajasthan State Archives: This place is known to house a wealth of historical records of the State and hence enjoys special repute throughout the World. It has in store some invaluable administrative record of Mughal period such as Persian Farmans, Nishans, Manshurs, Akbarat, Vakil Report, Arzdasht and Khatoot. Other important documents include records made during the administration of the princely states of Rajasthan comprising of Bahiat, Pattas, Parwanas, and Rukkas Chithia. Besides, this custodian of ancient records also offers amazing facilities like microfilming, reference library and research rooms for the benefit of researchers. An exhibition of important documents is also set-up especially for tourist interest. You can visit the museum on all week days from 10.30 a.m. to 4.30 p.m.

Gajner Palace: Located at a distance of 30 minute drive from Bikaner, this early 20th century red stone fort is spread over an area of 6000 acres. It was built by the great Maharaja Ganga Singhji of Bikaner on the embankment of a lake with a generous dose of flora and fauna. In those times, it functioned as a hunting and relaxing lodge wherein, the maharaja and the family shared their passion with their exclusive guests and hosted exotic holidays for them.

Today, the palace that has been converted to a Heritage Hotel, with its thick forestation attracts tourists from all over the world. The red sandstone palace is distinguished for its architectural grandeur and luxuriously appointed suites and rooms. You may just opt to stay at this place to relax yourselves and to take up a simple walk around admiring the migratory birds in winters like imperial sand goose, antelopes, black bucks and the animal species that wander around like nilgais, chinkaras, deers etc. The hotel is spread in a large area, and the ambiance around is as raw and authentic as it was before.

Camel Research Farm: Located at a distance of 8km from Bikaner, this research farm is the only one of its kinds in Asia. It extends over an area of 2000 acres of semi arid land and is managed by the Central Government. Three different breeds of camels are reared here which are usually sold in the cattle fairs of Bikaner and Jaisalmer where they are decorated in all their fineries. The farm has more than 200 camels and you would love the place, if you want to take a camel ride, or just pat the baby camels. It is said that the camels found here are the best breed and even the British army had camel corps drawn from Bikaner during the World War I. The research center and farm is open to visitors from 3:00pm to 5:00pm, everyday.

Kolyatji: This is a great pilgrimage spot located 50 kms from Bikaner in a village called Kolyat. This place is famous as the holy land where Kapil Muni, the advocate of Shankya yoga of the Hindu philosophy did his tapasya (penance) here for the redemption of the world. The complex has several temples, pavilions and bathing ghats. You may take a dip in the holy waters of the lake especially on Kartik Poornima (November) during your visit to this place, as it is considered very auspicious.

Katariasar Village: This village is located on the Jaipur Road and is rich in ethnic rural and cultural life. A walk on the sand dunes is enjoyable and viewing the sun set with a desert landscape at the background is heavenly. The main inhabitants of this village are Jasnathjis, who are the fire dancers and their main life style is dairy farming for milk. Herds of chinkaras, desert fox, rabbits, peacocks, parrots and partridges are found in abundance in this area.

Gajner Wildlife Sanctuary: Bikaner never fails to surprise tourists with its innumerable places of tourist interest. Among the most interesting tourist attractions is the Gajner Wildlife Sanctuary, which is located at a distance of 32 kms from Bikaner on the Jaisalmer road. It is said that in the days of yore Gajner Wildlife Sanctuary used to be royal hunting grounds of the Rajputs and the British aristocracy. The Maharajas of Bikaner used these wooded regions to indulge in their favorite leisure, hunting. Luminaries such as Lord Elgin, Lord Montbatten and Prince of Wales have been known to hunt here.

Today, the thickly forested hillocks of the Gajner Wildlife Sanctuary houses a wide variety of animals that include wildfowl, hares, wild boar, desert foxes and a number of deer and antelopes including black bucks and blue bulls.

The Gajner attracts a lot of birds to its picturesque lakes that lie in the middle of the Sanctuary, surrounded by a dense forest. You can see a variety of wild animals that come to the lake to quench their thirst in the sweltering heat of the summer season.

You can visit the place by jeeps with the forest officers as the guides. The entry fee to the Sanctuary is Rs. 100/- only. Daily buses and taxis ply between Bikaner and Gajner village allowing easy access to the Gajner Wildlife Sanctuary.

Staying there

Apart from the Gajner Palace Hotel, there are not many places for staying near the precincts of the Sanctuary. The Palace Hotel lies in the midst of densely wooded jungle and the surrounding haunting wildlife. It is a great place hued in deep-pink color and, ornamented with delicate lattice screens and cupolas amidst lush gardens.

Fairs and Festivals of Bikaner

The city of Bikaner with its vibrant folks celebrates many colorful festivals and fairs in the city that attracts a huge number of tourists from all across the world. Some of the festivals are:

Camel Festival: This is an annual festival organized by the Department of Tourism, Art and Culture, Government of Rajasthan, in the month of January. The festival is an exclusive camel affair with camels draped in their most colorful finery. It organizes camel races, camel dances, and the bumpy, neck shaking camel rides. It also consists of Desert region's folk dances and music as add-ons to this camel celebration. You would surely like to participate in the festival which also has competitions for best decorated camel, fur cutting design, camel milking and the best camel hair cut.

You may also try the tea and sweets prepared by camel milk, which are made available to the visitors during this festival.

Gangaur Festival: This is a colorful festival dedicated to Goddess Parvati- the consort of Lord Shiva held all over Rajasthan but with a regional fervor in different places. In Bikaner, married women and maidens fast during the festival. They prepare sweet dishes, carry them to a well, make an offering to the goddess, and return home distributing these as prasad on the way. Grand processions of the deity accompanied by dancing women are a part of the eighteen day long celebrations.

Kolyat Fair: This fair held in the Kolyat temple attracts people from far and near, who come here to take a holy dip in the nearby Kolyat Lake on the full moon day. The fair coincides with Pushkar fair held in the month of Kartik (November).

Shopping there

Bikaneri bhujia and Bikaner sweetmeats prepared with thick and delicious camel milk definitely makes Bikaner a special tourist destination. And, we suggest, you should not leave the place without taking a sip of the refreshing camel milk tea.

For those avid shoppers, you can shop embroidered quilts, ghagras, camel leather goods and bright paintings, if you have time on your trip to Bikaner.

Reaching there

By Air: The nearest airport is at Jodhpur, which is 240 kms away.

By Rail: Bikaner is connected with Delhi, Jaipur and Jodhpur and other parts of India through rail network.

By Road: Bikaner is also accessible by roads and buses are available. It is 316 kms from Jaipur, 240 km from Jodhpur and 330 km from Jaisalmer.

The best time to visit Bikaner is in the winter months (i.e. November to February) when the weather is very pleasant.